Black Canyon piece in Gunnison Country Magazine

The Gunnison Country Magazine released its annual issue recently, and one of the features is something I wrote about the Black Canyon. For this piece I interviewed two climbers: Phil Broscovak, who has been climbing in the canyon since the 1970s, and Seth Calkins, who has been climbing there a bunch in the last five years. Hope you enjoy, the piece starts on page 24.

Tim Gibson in the Black Canyon with the Painted Wall in the background. Photo by Jonathan Schaffer

2011 Gunnison Country Magazine

Stokelab -- Shout Out

After a month long climbing trip to Yosemite, I am back in the writing saddle wondering where all my brain cells went. I understand why writing is such a difficult craft that can easily slip away from our lives. While I am cleaning out the cobwebs I wanted to post this interview I did with Stokelab.com. The online publication has some really cool content, with the sole mission of getting people stoked.

Stokelab Interview

photo by Shaun Matusawicz (somewhere in Utah)

peace,
Luke

Freedom (Connecting Kerouac, Jay-Z and Climbing)

“When I get older, I will be stronger, they’ll call me freedom, just like a waving flag,”
Wavin’ Flag by K-naan

In high school I never had an answer to the question of what I wanted to be when I grow up. I was from the Midwest, and there wasn’t one adult around that had a career I admired. Like many teenagers I was lost. There was one person though that seemed to have things figured out, an author I stumbled upon from one of my hippie friends, Jack Kerouac, author of “On The Road”.

Kerouac didn’t really do anything groundbreaking in that book; he traveled around with his buddies, chased women, embraced the loneliness of looking deep within, and philosophized on our country. But, the way he wrote about it, the prose, and the passion for living with freedom that stuck with me, and is still with me to this day.

I later found out that Kerouac basically drank himself to death, and didn’t really seem to live out a happy American life in the end. It was a sad thing to learn, but an important life lesson.

When I started traveling around, first following jam bands like Phish and Widespread Panic, I got my taste of Kerouac’s America: long drives on lonesome highways, nights of excitement in the cities, and sharing freedom with friends. My next stage of travelling was with rock climbing; it was much healthier than going to concerts day after day, and the freedom that the climbing life provides, well that’s the stuff great novels are made of.

I chased that freedom all around this country, to the point of having too much freedom. Such abandon from work and responsibility left me feeling lost. Having nothing to do but climb left climbing feeling more and more meaningless.

This is when I really picked up the pen, or in these days, started typing away. I had plenty of experiences to reflect upon, and stories to tell. I had found my career.

Eventually my career led to a full-time job, working mostly as a writer in higher education. I saw freedom slipping away, and wanted it back. With freedom in my rear view mirror I made a U-turn to find it again.

So I’m sitting here as the writer, looking out my window at my little corner of America here in Durango, Colorado, my home for now. I’ve got freedom back, but I’m still at a loss with a master plan of how to keep it. Any adult comes to the realization that money is needed for freedom. So I sit and wonder how to keep the money coming in.

I know what I want to be when I grow up, and I know I want freedom.

Again I’m looking to American literature. This time I’m captivated by another book, “Decoded” by Jay-Z, the great American rapper.

Jay-Z has led an incredible rags-to-riches life, growing up poor in the Marcy Projects in Brookyln, New York to becoming one of the most influential figures in the music industry. He’s been successful, not only as a rapper, but as an entrepreneur.

In “Decoded” he writes about hip hop and his life with such passion that it’s impossible not to get swept up and carried away in the book, what any good book should do. One incredible thing about Jay-Z is that he took what he loved, hip hop, and made himself a millionaire while still staying true to the art. To me Jay-Z embodies the spirit of freedom. Pick up the book for yourself, and once you sink into the paper and become captivated, just try to put it down. The book could also be considered a blueprint for the artist looking to be commercially successful, while remaining independent and respected by one’s peers.

So I realize it’s a big stretch to connect Jack Kerouac and Jay-Z with my search for freedom, but both have given me great gifts through their art. I embrace Kerouac’s spirit and Jay Z’s vision. As I work my way to becoming a famous writer, one who writes about my passion and hopes to become free through it, I think of my heroes that became free, if only for a moment in time, and the poetry and prose that led them to that state of freedom.

Kerouac's "On the Road" and Jay Z's "Decoded" can be purchased through Amazon with the following links below:

[DECODED]Decoded By Jay-Z(Author)Hardcover(Decoded) on 15 Nov-2010

On the Road (Penguin Great Books of the 20th Century)

New Blog from Cliff Cash (check him out)

Wanted to give a shout out to the homey Cliff Cash, and his new blog, "Cash, Money, Big-Bros". Cliff wrote for The Climbing Zine Volume 2, and his work will also appear in The Climbing Zine Volume 3.

(photo of Cliff Cash in Mexico)

He often takes on taboo subjects such as the legalization of marijuana, and well as writing some thrilling fiction pieces.

If you like the blog, be sure to join the list of followers.

Click here for Cliff Cash's blog

The Balance, "With my mind on the moment and the moment on my mind"

After a week in the desert, and a weekend of climbing and partying with friends, I delve back into my creative writing psyche to dig out the cobwebs. I’ve been in this situation before, in fact, this stance of repose is my life now: climbing and having adventures and then reflecting on them through prose.

Spring is upon us, flowers are blooming, the scenery is featuring more greenery, and possibilities are infinite. The routine of winter must be changed, as there is more light, and more hours to enjoy the outdoors. Whatever we want out of life we can dream about in spring.

In any season of life I struggle to find the balance; I think many climbers and other outdoor athletes are the same way, especially those who find their lives consumed by their outdoor pursuits. It is an easy mirage to get caught up in simply dedicating ourselves to these activities and giving less and less to the other facets of life. I lived this life for several years: climbing was what I did, and how I defined myself. The more I obsessed with climbing and it became a singular pursuit, the less I truly enjoyed it.

Then came the full-time job, after years of living the full-on dirtbag life I grew tired of it, and wanted something else. I flipped the switch directly from living out of a tent and climbing all the time, to working full-time and living indoors and all the comforts that come along with that. Eventually I grew as tired of the 9-5 life as I had my endlessly free dirtbag lifestyle.

I learned though, and all lessons in life must be learned through experience. After my recent experiment with the full-time existence I realize there are many benefits of gainful employment. A man can only go so far living day to day in a financial way, and as we get older we have the need for health and dental insurance and savings. If a man wishes to have a family, he must bring home the bacon, as they say.

That said, I don’t have a family yet, and I am in good health. I’m taking the risk of not having insurance and savings, and living as free as I’d ever been. It’s a risk worth taking, in good time.

Recently, I've found myself having an internal debate of what direction I want to head in life. The practical, fiscal side of me tells me to start heading back to security, to a full-time job with benefits, while my free-wheeling spirit says to keep climbing, keep dreaming, life as free as the wind, work only when I completely run out of money. Then there is the voice of experience, it says to find something in the middle, find the balance. Have money but also live in a tent from time to time. Work, but have weeks, even months to ramble, to enjoy the public lands of our country, experience freedom. Realize there is a time and place for everything, and keep my mind on the moment, and the moment on my mind.

More Spring Indian Creek Action

This past weekend was another journey out to Indian Creek. It was much cooler than the previous weekend, and almost ideal temperatures for climbing. It was a bit windy and dusty, though. Anyways here's some shots, mostly scenic, but a few action shots.

The Freedom Mobile with the Disappointment Cliffs in the background.

A horse and a pony grazing out in the Broken Tooth area.

The Reservoir Wall (left) and the Paragon Prow (right).

The Bridger Jack Mesa at sunset.

Alex on Trip to the Vet, Cat Wall.

Climber on the classic Rock Lobster, Broken Tooth Wall.

Lou on the off-width climb, Incisor, Broken Tooth Wall.

Clouds looming over the Fin Wall.

Freedom in front, Broken Tooth Wall in the background.

Below is a link to the Indian Creek guidebook. I'm hooked up through Amazon, so if you buy it from them I get hooked up! word.

Indian Creek: A Climbing Guide

"It's Gettin' Hot in Here" Spring Indian Creek Photo Essay

After many days spent climbing and camping at Indian Creek this winter, the spring has finally arrived. I was there this past weekend with my friends Seth and Adam, and was shocked by the heat. It was almost too hot to climb in the sun at certain times of the day. So spring fever is upon us, here's the best photos I took over the weekend, which included a first free ascent of a new line on the Broken Tooth Wall.

Seth Calkins getting ready for an Unnamed pitch at the Optimator wall. Wish I had a closer up picture of Seth, because he had a sweet "chops" mustache going on.

Calkins on Anunnaki, at the Optimator Wall. This is one of the most aesthetic pitches at The Creek, and supposedly stays dry during a rainstorm, according to the guidebook.

Adam Ferro onsighting Double Bock, at the Optimator Wall.

The message board near the Bridger Jack Campground. Even if you're not waiting for a note, this message board often has entertaining messages like this one. Since there's no cell service at The Creek this board serves as the communication center.

The North Six Shooter, seen from the Creek Pastures campground.

Charlie taking a nap at the Second Meat Wall. The Six Shooters are in the background.

Adam Ferro on the first free ascent of Snaggle Tooth, a route on the far right side of the Broken Tooth Wall. Two Tent Timmy and I put this route up over the winter, and I was psyched to see Adam get the first free lead.

The sunset while driving back after my time in The Creek. Photo taken just outside of Dolores, Colorado. Every time I leave Colorado, no matter how short, I'm always psyched to see the "Welcome to Colorful Colorado" sign, and I immediately feel at home.

Cheers to you and yours getting out there this spring!